Quick Answer: Should You Stay in Hiroshima or Miyajima?
When planning a trip to the Hiroshima area, one of the biggest decisions you will make is whether to book a hotel in Hiroshima City or a traditional Miyajima ryokan on the island itself.
Here is the short answer:
- Stay in a Miyajima ryokan if: You want a high-end, traditional Japanese experience (tatami rooms, onsen, kaiseki dinners) and want to see the iconic floating torii gate illuminated at night or completely empty at sunrise.
- Stay in Hiroshima City if: You are on a budget, traveling with heavy luggage, or want a wide variety of restaurants and nightlife options after 6:00 PM.
To help you decide, here is a quick comparison of what to expect:
| Feature | Staying in Miyajima (Ryokan) | Staying in Hiroshima City |
|---|---|---|
| Vibe | Peaceful, traditional, deeply atmospheric after dark. | Lively, convenient, urban energy. |
| Dining at Night | Extremely limited. Most shops close by 5:00 PM. | Endless options (okonomiyaki, izakaya, bars). |
| Luggage | Requires carrying luggage onto ferries and walking to the inn. | Easy access from train stations or bus stops. |
| Cost | High (often includes dinner and breakfast). | Budget-friendly to moderate. |
Pressed for time or prefer the convenience of a city hotel?
If dealing with ferries, luggage transfers, and finding dinner on a quiet island sounds stressful, you can easily base yourself in Hiroshima City. To maximize your time, joining a guided day tour is the most efficient way to see both the atomic bomb historical sites and Miyajima Island without any logistical headaches.
Check Availability: Hiroshima and Miyajima UNESCO Sites 1-Day Tour
Why Staying in a Miyajima Ryokan is Worth It (And When It Isn’t)

Miyajima is famous for its floating torii gate and friendly wild deer. During the day, the island is packed with day-trippers. However, the true magic of Miyajima reveals itself after the last major ferries depart.
Staying overnight means you get the island almost entirely to yourself. You can walk along the waterfront at night to see the torii gate beautifully illuminated. In the early morning, you can visit Itsukushima Shrine in complete silence before the crowds arrive. Furthermore, a ryokan stay offers a deep dive into Japanese hospitality (omotenashi), complete with soaking in an onsen (hot spring) and wearing a yukata (cotton kimono).
However, it is not for everyone. Miyajima ryokans are premium accommodations. You are paying for the location, the exclusivity, and the multi-course meals. If you prefer modern western beds over futons, or if you like to go bar-hopping late into the night, a ryokan on Miyajima might feel too restrictive.
3 Best Miyajima Ryokans for an Unforgettable Stay
If you decide that an overnight stay is right for you, booking the right ryokan is crucial. Here are three highly rated options that offer authentic experiences, excellent food, and convenient locations near the ferry terminal and shrine.
1. Iwaso (The Historical Luxury Experience)
Located near Momijidani Park, Iwaso is arguably the most famous and historical ryokan on the island, having hosted royalty and dignitaries. Surrounded by nature, it offers a deeply peaceful atmosphere.
- Why stay here: Stunning outdoor hot springs surrounded by forest, impeccable traditional architecture, and top-tier kaiseki dining.
- Best for: Travelers looking for the ultimate classic ryokan experience and high-end luxury.
2. Kinsuikan (Best for Private Onsen & Couples)
Kinsuikan is conveniently located along the seaside promenade, just a 5-minute walk from the ferry terminal. It blends traditional Japanese aesthetics with modern comforts.
- Why stay here: They offer rooms with private hot spring baths. If you have tattoos (which are often restricted in public onsen in Japan) or simply want privacy, this is a major advantage.
- Best for: Couples, honeymooners, and travelers with tattoos who want to enjoy an onsen without worry.
3. Kurayado Iroha (Modern Comfort & Excellent Location)
Situated very close to Itsukushima Shrine, Kurayado Iroha offers a modern take on the traditional ryokan. The rooms are spacious, and many offer sweeping views of the Seto Inland Sea.
- Why stay here: The rooftop open-air bath provides incredible views of the ocean and the floating torii gate. They also offer beds in some rooms for those who prefer them over floor futons.
- Best for: Travelers who want the ryokan vibe but prefer slightly more modern amenities and ocean views.
Essential Survival Tips for Your Miyajima Overnight

Booking a beautiful Miyajima ryokan is only half the battle. To ensure your trip is relaxing rather than stressful, you must prepare for the realities of island logistics.
Rule #1: Book Half-Board (Dinner Included)
This is the most critical piece of advice for staying on Miyajima. Almost all restaurants, street food stalls, and souvenir shops close by 5:00 PM when the day-trippers leave. While there are a handful of local izakayas that open late, they are often fully booked or close unexpectedly.
If you book a “room only” rate, you will likely struggle to find dinner. Always book a half-board plan (1-night stay with 2 meals). This guarantees you a spectacular, multi-course kaiseki dinner and a traditional Japanese breakfast the next morning directly at your ryokan.
Rule #2: The Luggage Hack (Travel Light)
Getting to a Miyajima ryokan involves taking a train to Miyajimaguchi Station, boarding a ferry, and then walking (sometimes on gravel or stone paths) to your accommodation. Dragging a heavy, full-sized suitcase through crowds and onto a boat is exhausting.
The solution: Use the large coin lockers at Hiroshima Station or Miyajimaguchi Station to store your main luggage (if you are unsure where to find them, our guide to luggage storage in Hiroshima and Miyajima has all the exact locations). Pack a small overnight backpack with just your essentials (clothes for the next day, toiletries) for the island. Your ryokan will provide a yukata (loungewear) and all the bath amenities you need.
The Smart Alternative: Stay in Hiroshima & Take a Day Tour
Let’s be realistic: Miyajima ryokans are expensive, they book up months in advance, and the logistics of moving luggage and catching ferries are not ideal for everyone. If you are traveling with a family, have a tight itinerary, or simply prefer to spend your evenings in a bustling city with endless dining options, staying in Hiroshima City is a much more practical choice.
You do not have to stay overnight on the island to experience its magic. You can easily base yourself at a comfortable, affordable hotel in Hiroshima City and visit Miyajima on a day trip.
Want to see the highlights without the stress?
If you want to skip the hassle of figuring out train schedules, ferry tickets, and walking routes, a guided day tour is highly recommended. You can comfortably visit the Atomic Bomb Dome, the Peace Memorial Park, and Itsukushima Shrine in one seamless, well-paced day with an English-speaking guide.
Check Availability: Hiroshima and Miyajima UNESCO Sites 1-Day Tour
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Should I stay 1 night or 2 nights in Miyajima?
One night is perfect. It gives you enough time to experience the quiet evening atmosphere, enjoy a traditional kaiseki dinner, and see the shrine early the next morning. Two nights on the island is generally unnecessary unless you plan to do extensive hiking up Mount Misen and want a very slow-paced retreat.
Are there any restaurants open for dinner on Miyajima?
Very few. A couple of places like Kura Vitto or okonomiyaki shops might be open, but they are often crowded with other tourists who did not book dinner at their hotels. Relying on outside restaurants for dinner on Miyajima is a major risk.
Can I enter the ryokan onsen if I have tattoos?
Most traditional public hot springs in Japan prohibit tattoos. However, many modern ryokans (like Kinsuikan) offer private onsen (kashikiri-buro) or rooms with open-air baths attached. In a private bath, tattoos are completely fine.

Hi, I’m Kai. I’m a Tokyo-based travel writer, tourism industry insider, and the author of a published guidebook for international visitors to Japan. With over 10 years of professional experience at a leading Japanese tourism company, my mission is to help you skip the tourist traps and navigate Japan’s best destinations like a local. I believe the perfect day trip is like a traditional kaiseki meal: a beautiful balance of precise planning and unforgettable seasonal discovery. When I’m not out conducting field research, you’ll usually find me drafting new itineraries with one of my favorite fountain pens!
